PROVOCATION
Sex, drugs, green hair cannot be
called a provocation any more. If
something like that provokes any-
body he is описку guy. Listen, fool
the world eager to enslave you,
make it play upon your rules!
Bored with "soap operas"? Try
something like Venice Connection
and HempTV. Tired'of the Caucasus
war? Imagine a peaceful rave in
Grozny. Be yourself!
Oliviero Toscani
Photographer Oliviero Toscani is an
lemperor in the world of provocation.
Everyone knows his Benetton ads.
Remember the t-shirt of a soldier
killed in Sarayevo? He is an editor-
in-chief of Colors magazine. He is
a founder of La Fabrica, a
school of advertisement for a new
generation of non-conformists.
5
P: What does the word 'provoca-
tion' mean to you?
T: Provocation doesn't exist in itself.
It's a result. There are people who
feel being provoked. The same with
religion - it only exists when you
pray. Provocation begins with a
question: "why?" It is associated with
time, culture, with level of education. Provocation is opposite to bore-
dom.
P: Your ads are wide-spread in the world. Do you seek for universal
provoking elements that work everywhere and always?
T: There is no eternal provocation. There are dogmas and symbols.
A symbol of life, swastikc^ Nazis made it a symbol of violence. We
have to understand that an image is not dangerous.
.. In our school,
La Fabrica, we now study fear. W e show a picture of a cup with a
swastika and study reaction. I wanted to have my book titled
"Swastika And Coca-Cola". The publishers suggested the title should
be "Advertisement Is A Corpse That Smiles At Us". But I would like
better this one: "During The Agony The Sale Is GoinJ On". Alas, dic-
tatorship made its own choice.
/
P: Is the Colors magazine a provocation?
T: Colors is an experimental magazine. It's an experience of how to
make a magazine without celebrities and news. Colors is a different,
alien, really international magazine. Every issue is dedicated to one
particular topic: Work, AIDS, Animals.
.. Colors magazine is criticis-
ing the life itself, the art of life. If it is provoking it's good.
DRUGS
Venice Corn
HempTV
Kenya Vinchel is an author, produc-
er of the soap opera Venice
Connection where she also stars as
a dealer and pro-cannabis activist.
VC is shown four times a week on
the Public Access Channel in New
York and LA. I met her in
Amsterdam where she, with her
camera man, was filming Cannabis
Cup, an annual contest of cannabis
growers, by-product inventors and a
great festival for all pot-smokers in
the world. "Our goal is to show the
reality on TV," says Kenya. "We
were sick and tired of shallow and
hypocritical TV so we decided to
start our own show dedicated to
cannabis legalisation where docu-
mentary is mixed with feature film.
Cannabis is a wonderful plant that
can save the world. It's time to draw
its true portrait." The cannabis prob-
lem is especially important for
Kenya since a few years ago her
brother, a heroin addict, was found
HIV positive. And cannabis is
known as a veiy good medicine for
some side effects of the chemical
treatment. "We must fight the preju-
dice against cannabis, explain peo-
ple that it not only makes you feel
high but serves in many every-day
needs. Cannabis is a medicine, it is
clothes, cosmetics and paper."
Every part of Venice Connection is
followed by HempTV, a music show
with musicians linked with the
cannabis and 'shroom scene.
A S H I О N
Professional Clothes For
Fashion Victims
"That looks well what works well."
This is a motto of all fans of stylish
overalls. Since the turn of the Century
this subtle beauty of functional clothes
or, in other words, soldier's, con-
struction worker's or sportsman's uni-
form, has been, probably, the main
attraction for fashion designers.
Zippers, firemen's huge reinforced
boots, multitude of pockets, back-
packs.
.. Jeans, original American
miners' uniform, or Dr. Martens
shoes, designed for construction
workers, are now suitable for any
occasion. These things simply can't
go out of fashion.
Back in 1910s the Parisian Bohemia
wore working clothes, postmen's
jackets and mechanic's overalls.
Picasso's sailor's shirt was no less
famous than it is now, worn by
Gaultier. Sailors' uniform became for
young Chanel one of the symbols of
her style as well as her dark dresses
with white cuffs and collar, i.e.
maid's uniform.
.. Yohji Yamamoto
found real minimalism in a row work-
ing costume. Vivienne Westwood
used camouflage in her women's
dress collection. Miuccia Prada
made everyone faint when she
showed a collection inspired by the
McDonald's uniform. AndJil Sander's
dress collection looks like it was
made specially for surgeons and
Drum'n'Bassayev
Young people always want to dance and have fun
despite any political situation.That is why we would
not be surprised having heard of a rave in Grozny.
Imagine: devoted fans of modern dance music gather
the cinema theatre "Flame" in the capital of
on the first week of peace.
DJ Sanchez (Moscow): Face control was pretty loyal,
let in both Russians and Chechens and didn't
away guns.
DJ Ageyev (New York - Moscow): The crowd warmly responded to
our international team of DJs. There were no conflicts between the
former rivals, though all ravers were armed.
DJ Shal (Palestine): I played my set and dived into the chill-out room.
Everybody lay on mattresses listening to a young fighter with a guitar
who sang Chechen songs.
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