lancet Is Back?
Something ethnical, or rather national, something juicy
and glittering. Call it whatever you want but it's Indian
Music. And it is back! With the only difference from
other Indian music - it is coming from England. The
smooth mixture or two cultures is represented on a com
pilation Anokha Sounds Of The Asian Underground.
Anokha stands for "unique" ^And trust me, it really is
unique. Nothing similiar to me boring World Music
series. Talvin Singh is the man behind this compilation
says that the secret of this music is that it is good for
the body, mind and soul in the same time.
And every Monday at London's Blue Note he's got a
chance to prove it.
Things are working out pretty well there. So maybe
tomorrow the entire world will be going crazy over it.
..
Christmas
The recent shows have passed. Men's collec-
tions (pret-a-porter) for the next summer and
winter collections (haute couture). Right now in
October, the shows are going to be in Paris,
Milan and London; pret-a-porter for the winter-
time, haute couture for the summer. This
machine never stops. The human's dream
come true; attractive ladies, eternal beauty,
handsome guys, heavenly images. The river of
luxury. But in all this, there is something that is
not nice, something that smells bad. It's like
someone shit under the Christmas tree.
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After 35 years after she misteriously dissappeared Betly Page became an idol.
She is a kind of top-model. In her style you can see an innocent erotism, and
something from s/m, plus american optimism of her time.
Betty is everywhere - on the t-shirts, records covers, buttons. Betty in the comic
books, in the big fat albums and books. On video where you can see her playing
a role of slave or a dancer.
Her idol is alive and it is growing. In the meantime (Ptuch exclusive information) in
the US, some movie producers have just started a TV production about Betty
Page, with Krista Campbell as Betty. Plus Guinevere Turner - a lesbian activist,
wrote a script and is going to start shooting a movie about the most famous of all
pin-ups.
She wanted to become a singer and have a big orchestra to tour with. Afterwards
like many others, she started to dream about Hollywood. After the Hollywood
fever was over she wanted to make a career on Broadway. But the fairy lady
was definately angry at her, because none of her dreams came true.
The legend says that one day Betty came to Manhattan, she got there directly
from her small village, wearing an old pair of jeans and pieces of straw in her
hair. And the next day she was a superstar.
Haute couture? Is it really interesting? It's like those mexi-
cans, who die from hunger and are mad from their stupid
serials about rich people. But this is not a disease, this is
a tragedy! What is haute couture? 15 houses (not count-
ing all the correspondents and others like Versace and
Valentino). The most talented people, technical geniuses,
poets, fashion as kind of art.
.. But everyone knows nowa-
days that this is not for sale, and it wasn't made to be
sold. Two thousand clients (don't forget that haute couture
is strictly women's fashion) - most of them are wives of
arabian sheikhs, who will be wearing their fur coats in
especially iced rooms of their palace.
Москва,
Измайловский вал, 2
тел
360 6170,
369 6312
410
Guccimen, be careful!
After this year's couple of shows in Paris Raf Simons is ready to be big!
very strange young fellow, pale, 27 years, very shy. He has degree in
industrial design, and was making furniture until he met Walter Van B.
and decided to become a fashion designer himself. But they have
absolutely nothing in common. You won't see his face here: don't get it
wrong, says he, here the clothes are the most important thing. Men's
clothing - very simple, but the details and fabrics are remarquable.
Absolutely modern. Someone might think that it is just very naive. And
what if it were the major point?
P; How did it happen that you got interested in fashion?
S: Fashion as it is. I just love working with other people. And you alway
meet new people in fashion, it is a part of the job. It is different with furr
ture: you give it to the client, you leave it there, and you'll never see it
again. Now with the clothes it's different, you think if, you make it, and
then you suddenly see people in the streets wearing it, and that is great!
P: Can you tell what is the main image of the 90s? Looking at all the
things in the showroom, I can assume that an important part of the enerc
that comes from you is very dark, a kind of 70's atmosphere, some thine
from Westwood and McLaren.
..
S: I know what you mean. These are the things that were interesting for
me back in that time. In my collections I always use some elements,
which contains their influence. The leather jacket for example, which I
always wanted when I was a little kid, but I could not have because m
parents were definitely allergic to it. The same thing with these tight blac
pants. I always try to find images that go against mainstream tendency.
Punk elements, for instance, have nothing in common with this season's
male fashion. I always had those elements in my head, and I
just decid-
ed to use them now, when, on my opinion, it looks more shocking than
ever. It is not your basic Gucci/Prada! It is anti glamour! Or a kind of
underground glamour, more individualistic, it is like if you created it all t
yourself, based it on your personal style, and in the end you won't be
looking like someone who dresses in Raf Simons from head to toe.
Nobody would ever say "Hey, look, if is Simonsman!" Just like they say
about the average Gucciman.
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